FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS AND CONCERNS
1) Question: Others have recommended 6 mil vs 10 mil VB. I assume thicker is better from a durability perspective, but are there functional differences?
Answer: 10 mil is thicker and does not puncture or tear as easily. it is a little more expensive but I feel worth it in the long run. It’s your choice- We’ll install either one you decide on.
2) Question: The disinfecting/cleaning doesn’t mention the piers, ductwork or drain pipes…we saw some mold in those places…you probably told me during the visit, but is that covered or is that an extra cost?
Answer: It’s all included.
3) Question: How do you seal off the foundation vents? Assuming a worst case scenario where the EZBreathe system fails and has to be removed, can the vents be unsealed to their original condition?
Answer: We use 2″ rigid foam board w/spray foam around the edges and it can be removed if needed.
4) Question: Is the brick/foundation/siding surrounding the EZBreathe external air vent on the outside of the house more susceptible to mold growth and require more frequent cleaning (power washing), given the constant flow of moist air?
Answer: I’ve never seen this occur.
5) Question: Regarding encapsulate…can that be purchased and applied later (i.e. during a subsequent annual inspection) assuming no mold remediation is required at that time?
Answer: It’s costly if there is batt insulation between the floor joists because it would have to be removed and reinstalled and a ground cover placed over the vapor barrier to protect it from overspay.
6) Question: Even if encapsulate is applied to the wood post-remediation, mold can still grow in the crawlspace (i.e. attach to piers, ductwork, pipes) and infiltrate the home’s air supply, correct? (Which may be why you are suggesting EZBreathe is better than encapsulation given a trade-off, since it prevents growth and makes encapsulation less critical.)
Answer: Mold only grows when there is enough moisture to sustain it’s growth and an adequate food source.
7) Question: Air quality testing…your proposal mentions optional pre and post testing. I think you said you knew Eric/Inspex. Does the test he performed (and we reviewed when you were here) constitute a pre-test, and thus can I use Inspex to perform the post-test?
Answer: Correct, and testing is not required. We include the recommendation so that customers are aware they have the option and that if it they are considering testing, pretesting is as neccessary as post testing.
9) Question: I tend to be a bit leary of contractor initiated change orders. I understand there’s a charge if I request additional work, but what types of work do you typically uncover during the job that would require additional labor or material cost?
Answer: We are typically so thorough in our inspection that we very rarely run into this but but the damage is generally hidden from normal view. (ie. slow toilet leak with damage to subfloor not detected until insulation is out of the way).
Answer: I don’t think so but you may want to check with your tax preparer.
11) Concern: Negative pressure causes external air to be pulled into the house more aggressively from leaking/unsealed areas in a way that worsens those problems (i.e. more pronounced drafts at windows/doors). Related it may also send a greater percent of that unconditioned air straight into the crawlspace (bypassing the HVAC cycle straight to the crawlspace draw vent, thus lessening the conditioning/dehumidifying effect in the crawlspace).
Answer: This is a subtle air exchange and has an almost negligable effect on pressurization in the house. The HVAC system has a much greater cfm capacity and air draw effect.